This is Yun Hai Taiwan Stories, a newsletter about Taiwanese food and culture by Lisa Cheng Smith 鄭衍莉, founder of Yun Hai. If you aren’t yet a subscriber, sign up here.
Happy Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month; much appreciation to all the AAPI business owners and organizers that are working twice as hard this time of year to celebrate our myriad cultures. There’s no one way to be Asian American; our identities are plural and aggregate to our global voice. The diversity and richness of happenings this month are a testament to that.
Don’t miss our events: in the very near term, we’re tabling at the Taiwanese American Cultural Festival in San Francisco this Saturday, and hosting an Asian vegetable seedling sale (yes, you too can grow bok choy) with Choy Division farm at our shop this weekend. Come see us and sample dried fruit and fruit jams in California, or, if you're in New York, take home your very own Pingtung eggplant to cherish and nurture.
In the last newsletter, I shared a treasured memory about a little cup of braised tofu at Taroko National Park and the feelings of renewal and kindness that came with it. I also mentioned that this area—Taroko Gorge and neighboring Hualien—is still rebuilding after last month’s earthquake. I had promised to share ways to help. Here’s the roundup; scroll down for details.
Yun Hai has committed to donating 10% of our sales through May 14th to the Hualian County Earthquake fund. If you’re in need of something, shop now (online or in store) and help us hit our $1500 donation goal! We’re about halfway there.
You can also donate to Hualien county directly through June 5th; information is shared below.
Our friend and collaborator Jessie YuChen is hosting Golden Dusk Market, a Food and Art Sale for Taiwan Earthquake Relief, this Monday, May 13th, at Wenwen in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
Read on for more details and a roundup of news and personal experiences regarding the earthquake last month.
The most powerful earthquake in Taiwan in 25 years entered and exited the news cycle in a blink. This is largely because, relative to the quake’s magnitude (7.4 on the Richter), Taiwan emerged with a low death toll and limited damage. A few articles extolled the preparedness of Taiwan in the face of such a disaster—a combination of building code reform, architectural retrofits, disaster preparedness, civilian education, and even a friendly rescue dog—and the the world moved on.
One month later, Taiwan continues its efforts to repair and rebuild. A friend of mine landed at the airport just before the earthquake, and I imagined her experiencing it on a people mover, a metaphor for Taiwan’s response: steadfast, dutiful, and forward looking. Another friend, just back from a visit, mentioned that you could tell who was visiting and who was local from their reaction to aftershocks: locals are relatively unperturbed as the earth beneath them roils. This is summed up by this gem of a reel by Taiwanese-American comedian Esther Chen, who compares NYC’s earthquake drama Taiwan’s (above).
Taiwan should be an example to us all, but (at least in the U.S.), it's been difficult to get a closer look at what's going on in the Hualien area, and how people's day-to-day lives have been affected. Without drama, Taiwan continues its the months-long process of repair, recovery, and rebuilding.
Hualien County, the area closest to the earthquake's epicenter, is still in the midst of recovery. Lives were lost; more than a thousand were injured; and aftershocks and smaller quakes continue to create damage, obstructing recovery. Taroko National Park, a jewel of Taiwan's rugged east coast wilderness and a major driver of Hualien's economy, remains closed until further notice due to the continuing threat of landslides, blocked trails, and obstructed roads. The region is undergoing efforts to rebuild, and a tourism stimulus package put together by the Taiwanese government will go into effect next month. Though many buildings survived the quake, many were also deemed unsafe for occupation, and those residents have been displaced. The thousands of residents affected need help getting their lives back in order, while also facing the challenges of a local economy in stasis.
Hualien Earthquake Relief
Hualien County has set up a fund to accept donations for earthquake disaster relief through June 5th. We've committed to donating 10% of our sales from May 7th through 14th, online and in-store, to this fund. Our hearts are with all who have suffered in the earthquake and its aftermath, and while we are optimistic about the future of Hualien, we must do our part, even from afar.
If you would like to donate directly, please see above for wire instructions from the Hualien County Office. We've vetted this account with the Taiwanese Economic and Cultural Office in NYC, the Taiwanese diplomatic body here in New York.
A Broad and Ample Road
Taking this opportunity to share one of my favorite newsletters on the subject of Taiwan: A Broad and Ample Road, written by educator Michelle Kuo and historian Albert Wu, both based in Taiwan. The “playful and soulful” resistance mentioned in their introductory paragraph below strikes a chord with me, and mirrors our intent at Yun Hai. Firm optimism; joyful subversion.
Based in Taiwan, our newsletter is “about” history, politics, justice, and law. More broadly, though, we’re interested in forms of resistance—including the playful and soulful kinds. We’re interested in the “patient, sustained effort,” as sociologist Charles Payne writes of SNCC organizers in the 1960s, of people everywhere. We’re interested in how others live and work, or deal with not working. We’re especially interested in people who live and work on the margins. This includes incarcerated & formerly incarcerated people, undocumented people, musicians, artists, librarians, contingent workers in the academy, activists and educators (especially those in rural or deindustrialized areas), people who have chosen a religious vocation, and Gen-Zers working in the trenches to make a difference.
I thought the best writing on the earthquake was their personal account of their experience: “The Earth Buffalo Flips Over.” It’s worth a read for the larger context on earthquakes in Taiwan, but also a reflection on how Taiwan’s civil society has as much to do with disaster resilience as the official government agencies. Albert also reflects on how this experience compared to that of Taiwan’s last major quake in 1999, which had resulted in much more devastation.
May Events
There are lots of things going on to celebrate AAPI Heritage Month. Check out the What’s On At Yun Hai page for the full list of everything happening at Yun Hai, from events to quick sale items.
Saturday, May 11th, 11am-3pm, Seedling Sale (NYC): Last year, we hosted a seedling sale with Choy Division, an Asian- and woman-owned farm in Orange County, NY that grows heirloom Asian vegetables in a sustainable way. The event was such a joy that we’ve decided to welcome farmer Christina Chan back to our storefront (170 Montrose Ave.) for Seedling Sale, round 2. Details here.
Saturday, May 11th, 10am-4pm (SF): For those in the Bay Area, don’t miss out on the Taiwanese American Cultural Festival, the largest Taiwanese American celebration on the West Coast, where we’ll have a table selling dried fruits, Taiwanese jams, and Ai Yu Jelly Kits. This is the first time we’re sampling jams outside of our Brooklyn store, so be sure to stop by for a taste.
Monday, May 13th, 5-8pm (NYC): Our friend, chef and writer Jessie YuChen, is also raising funds for earthquake recovery in Taiwan by hosting a food and art sale at Wenwen in Brooklyn. Tickets are $10 at the door, and can be exchanged for goods (including dried fruit from yours truly) or a raffle entry (there’s a chance to win a Tatung 11-Cup Full Set). Proceeds from the event will be donated to the Taiwan Foundation for Disaster Relief, a public organization under the Ministry of Health and Welfare.
Wednesday, May 15th, 6pm (NYC): For Apple’s AAPI Month programming, I will be giving a talk, Designing Globally with Yun Hai Taiwanese Pantry, at Apple Williamsburg about the inspiration behind Yun Hai and how I collaborate with our partners in Taiwan across time zones and languages. I’ll share a brief history of Yun Hai, some personal inspiration, and a behind-the-scenes look at how I collaborate visually with Taipei-based design team O.OO using the iPad and Apple Pencil. The session is free; sign up here.
Friday, May 24th, 12-2pm (Cambridge, MA): Our COO Lillian Lin will be at Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge to host a jam sampling. If you're in the Boston area, swing by to say hi and try some of our jams!
Sunday, May 26th, 12pm, (NYC): Celebrate Taiwanese American Heritage Week at the Passport to Taiwan festival in NYC, where we’ll once again have a table set up. More details to come.
And, if you’re looking to arrange gifts for your team, clients, or business partners this AAPI Heritage Month, we are offering 15% off all bulk and corporate gifting orders (minimum of 10 items). Reach out to gifting@yunhai.shop to make an inquiry.
Like a people mover in an earthquake,
Lisa Cheng Smith 鄭衍莉
Written with editorial support by Amalissa Uytingco, Jasmine Huang, Luke Miller, and Lillian Lin. If you enjoyed this newsletter, please share it with friends and subscribe if you haven’t already. I email once a month, sometimes more, sometimes less. For more Taiwanese food, head to yunhai.shop, follow us on instagram and twitter, or view the newsletter archives.
What a beautiful, versatile, big-hearted newsletter. I'm moved that you're donating 10 percent of your proceeds to earthquake relief in Hualien, the hometown of my in-laws and their family. Thanks for this and all the work you do!